12th November (sun, cloud, mild)

Had to be out of the hotel at 7am this morning as the taxi was picking us up at that time to take us to the airport for our trip to Barcelona. We’d set the alarm for 6.15am, however, although I had a pretty good kip, especially after the last three nights, neither Julia nor myself could relax fully as we wanted to make sure we didn’t miss the alarm, hence, for Julia in particular, a lack of sleep. During the night she had woken at 2am and asked me to turn the air conditioning off as it was too noisy and the duvet on the bed was making us sweat. She didn’t sleep again after that and by 6am we were up and getting showers.

The taxi, ordered for 7am, arrived at 6.55am and when we walked out to climb aboard, it was chucking it down. The taxi driver certainly knew the route well and timed the lights to perfection on our twenty minute, thirty euro drive. The domestic terminal in Barcelona, is much like most other domestic terminals around the world. They don’t have the glamour of the internationals, they are just there to get people from one city in Spain, to another.  After a coffee and something to eat at the overpriced café, we waited for our plane to board. Going through the x-ray machine and it goes off. I’m asked to take everything out of my pockets…I only had some coins and after removing them, through the machine again, this time without a beep. Not good enough for Spanish authorities however and this time I’m frisked, front and back and then they take a machine which tests whether or not you have come in contact with drugs. I could see my fellow passengers thinking, “I thought he looked a bit suss in the waiting lounge” and others suggesting to their friends that they thought I was probably a coke trafficker. Believe me, the price they charge for a can of coke at the airport, I could probably make a few bucks just going around selling that. At the end of all the fuss, I was back to being just another passenger.

Ju and I boarded the flight in our tank tops and shorts, whilst all the Spaniards were decked out in jerseys and jackets. God knows how they coped on the plane as the temperature was very warm. Good flight and an hour and a half later, we touched down in Barcelona, home of the Sagrada Familia, the Camp Nou, but more importantly, Manuel, from Fawlty Towers.  However, that would have to wait as Dad was arriving from the UK at 4.45pm so we thought we would make use of the time to familiarise ourselves with the airport to ensure a smooth exit on Friday.

We checked with Singapore Airlines about the size of the boxes as we were a little worried they would be too big – No Problem they assured us.  We found out where the scales were in case we need to make sure they are not over the allowed 30kg.  We found out where the taxis would drop us off and we bought another overpriced coffee and sandwich.  Then we cruised over to terminal 2 to meet Dad, who as it turned out had already landed because his plane got in at 3.45pm.  As it was he hadn’t emerged yet and came out into the arrivals hall about five minutes after we got there.

Ju gives Dad a hug as he arrives in Barcelona from the UK

Hugs all round and then outside to catch a taxi.  Got another really good driver who deposited us outside the apartment half an hour later for another 30 euros.  We had to wait for the guy to come and open the apartment for us so sat at a handy bar in the square outside and caught up on the last two months over a beer for me, a shandy for Dad and a wine for Ju.  While we were sitting there, we noticed the Sagrada Familia is right down the end of the square, so that’s handy.

Into the flat which is three bedroomed, nothing too fancy but perfectly fine for us.  Dumped all the luggage then went into a Chinese downstairs where Dad got an omelette (big surprise there!), Ju a paella and I had a pizza.  We all enjoyed our meals and also got massive drinks with them.  Dad had ordered a rum and coke which was at least a double and thought we’d be helping him up the stairs after that as he’s hardly the world’s biggest drinker, but he coped just fine and we all went for a wander to the Sagrada Familia.  

The view that greeted us as we walked out of the apartment

Wow, what a place!  We have seen a lot of cathedrals but this is something else.  Dad suggested that Gaudi, the architect, may have been on drugs, and he’s got a point.  The design is really out there, but of course, that’s what sets it apart.  After taking some photos, we visited the nearby supermarket for supplies then went back to the apartment for a milky coffee and then bed.

11th November (cloudy morning, sunny hot afternoon)

Woke to grey skies but a mild day. Moving locations this morning as we couldn’t book our entire stay in Seville here at Casa de Blas. I’m hoping we are not staying next to another nightclub and that double glazing is the norm. As the morning advanced, we checked flights, booked an extra bag from Auckland and posted another blog from two days ago. Also tried to find out dimensions on these boxes we’ve shipped the bikes to Barcelona in. We need to be able to ship the bikes back to NZ in them, otherwise we are in trouble. If we turn up at check in and they tell us the boxes are too big (they are definitely bigger than previous boxes we have used), we have no time to find an alternative arrangement.  Apparently as long as they are not longer than two metres, we should be ok – fingers crossed.

2,000 year old Roman columns in Alameda Square (rectangle)

At 11am we left la Casa de Blas and headed south towards the town centre.  We stopped off for coffee and toast on the way where we were sat outside and only had a guitar playing, singing guy asking us for money.  It was definitely a case of I’ll pay you to go away mate, but we let the table next to us do that.  There are so many old and enchanting streets in Seville and always plenty to look at.  So we wandered slowly with all our possessions for the next week in just a pannier bag.  Stopped to watch a bunch of fit young guys perform some very impressive acrobatic and gymnastic dance moves.  However, they didn’t have the showmanship to go with it.  I think it may have been their first time busking and when you see someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing, it’s obvious.  What some people will do in the name of busking is quite unbelievable.  There’s one person who sits outside the post office all day, every day it seems, dressed in a very home-made, extremely colourful but quite tatty bird outfit.  I only know it’s supposed to be a bird, because it has a beak.  They sit there all day playing this inane tune on a yazoo while opening and closing the beak. It has to be one of the most annoying sounds on earth along with the “It’s a small world after all” tune played at Disneyland (well it was 35 years ago, and I still remember it!! Don’t know if they still play it).

Our room at Alcoba Palazio

Check-in time at our new place wasn’t until 2pm but we chanced going there at 1.30pm and were able to check in straight away.  We thought our last place was central.  This place was wedged between the palace and the cathedral and was brand new, only been open for two months! We had a room which contained two walls of the original city wall and it looked as though sleep could be on the cards as those walls were thick! 

Left our gear and once again set out on an afternoon of wandering the city streets trying to capture the flavour that is Seville. 

Part of the cathedral

So much decorative detail from the cobbles to the soffeits.

Interestingly, this time of year is particularly busy around and most people who live here go away in the months of July and August, when the temperatures reach as high as forty four degrees. Today we had varying temperature gauges telling us it was twenty seven to thirty five degrees. We estimate it was on the lower end of the scale. Although we’ve certainly been to the tourist attractions, we also tend to go off that path and see the alleys and out the way places. As far as history or architecture goes, there is an abundance wherever you wander.

By late afternoon, with the weather still warm, we realised that we hadn’t eaten anything since late morning, so after a few more kms trying to decide, we settled on a place just around the corner from the hotel called Las Iguana Ranas, where we enjoyed two delicious meals with drinks and great service. Even here, we were approached twice at the table by people asking for money. Have I lost all my compassion, or do others feel the same way. It’s hard to imagine being in that position, but when you see them drinking and smoking, all with better i-phones than I have, I really struggle to feel anything but pissed off. Maybe I’m being tested, if so I fail miserably.

Daytime Plaza de Espana

Nightime plaza de Espana

A fountain on the way back to the hotel.

Back to the Plaza de Espana for some night shots, and it’s just as impressive as the daytime. It’s a strange feeling walking everywhere. I keep looking for the bikes. It takes a lot longer to get anywhere that’s for sure. Back to the hotel, just in time to watch some footy on Real Madrid TV. But no…. instead of showing the football, they commentate on the game whilst the cameras stay focused on the Real bench. I would not believe it, if I hadn’t seen it myself. This seems to be par for the course over here when you tune in to watch football – you actually just watch the commentators – I guess Sky have exclusive rights to showing the actual game.  Watched some of a really corny movie dubbed over in Spanish. Don’t know what country it originated from, but you’d have more fun trying to get a government department on the phone. Called it a night about 10.30pm.

10th November (cloudy with sunny spells, mild)

Because it was Thursday, yesterday and I didn’t sleep, because of noise, I made what I thought was a logical conclusion and decided that tonight being Friday and having discovered the place across from where we are is a club, by night, I had more chance of turning religious, than getting any sleep at all. I was correct. If it was loud last night, that was nothing. The other point worth a mention is that, the Spanish may spit constantly and let their dogs crap all over the footpath and street, but as soon as the clubs close, there are the street sweepers, all motorised, all loud and all taking forever.

Didn’t get out of bed until 9am and then it was a shave and a nice hot shower before munching some cereal whilst Julia ate a huge peach. This was a precursor to breakfast which we ate at an outdoor café in the square, (which is actually a rectangle), not far away. Very nice, reasonable price. Today had started out full of cloud. Typical. Just the day we wanted to do a lot of washing. Still, cloud or no cloud, it had to be done, so back to the apartment and put it on. Had a nice interaction with our host Blas, hung up the washing on the outdoor roof terrace before setting off to see Metropol Parasol, a whimsical wooden structure and piece of art, designed by a German architect, Jurgen Mayer.

The Metropol Parasol

On the way there we had to sample ice cream from one of the many ice cream outlets, selling a huge selection. Julia had Pistachio whilst I opted for Snickers. Very nice, but Tip Top certainly is our pick. The Parasol is interesting, looming over another square in that part of town. It’s a definite talking point. The rest of the time until 3pm, we casually wandered the streets of Seville taking in the sights, of which there are many. Again there were many buskers, even more churches and quaint streets waiting to be explored.   Then there were all the other tourists.  So many young girls, done up to the nines and practicing their Instagram poses while their friends played photographer, then they swapped roles and repeated the whole performance.  Fine but just don’t do all your prancing and pouting in my shot.

Popped into a café for lunch. Should have known this one was a mistake when after giving the young cocky waiter our order, he comes by about twenty minutes later and asks if we want more.  Actually, we’d just like to eat what we ordered twenty minutes ago mate.  And not your stale bread and dry olives that you so unceremoniously threw on the table.  We waited and waited. Finally the cocky guy says “You not got your food?”  No mate – are we supposed to go get it ourselves because you’re our waiter and you should know whether you’ve given it to us or not. Ten minutes later a surly waitress comes and practically throws one order on the table. Five minutes later we get the second order.  Couldn’t tell whose order was which as they both looked the same.  You’d think it would be easy as Ju had ordered guacamole and chicken, but neither plate had anything green on it.  So we just ate what was put before is as by now it was 3.30pm and we were pretty hungry.  Not hungry enough to touch the dry bread and olives however, but that didn’t stop them charging us for them! Told the older waiter who informed old cocky boy. “Is there a problem?” “No problem. We’re just not paying for something we didn’t order and didn’t eat.” Needless to say, the only tip for this guy is pay more attention to your customers, for they are the ones who pay your wages.

Not sure this is what Nike had in mind.......

At least by sitting inside we didn’t get bothered by the beggars.  This morning while we were eating our 5 euro breakfasts, we had two beggars approach us asking for money.  We both felt annoyed as it’s not often on this trip we have eaten at a restaurant and we didn’t like being made to feel guilty for treating ourselves.  (If coffee and toast can be called treating yourself). Besides, I’m pretty sure they wouldn’t have been happy if we’d given them a piece of toast, which begs the question, what did they want the money for?

Like all big cities there are a lot of people sleeping rough and setting up their “shops” on blankets, ready to bundle it all up and run from the cops if they have to.  Nobody seems to be buying from these people though so you wonder how they can make a living doing this.

Wandered back to the north end of town to our apartment to get the washing in before it got dark and while Ju loaded the photos on the computer, I had a kip to catch up on the zzzzz’s I’ve missed the last few nights.  When I woke about 8pm, neither of us could be bothered going out so we just chilled in the apartment and ate fruit for tea.

9th November (sunny and mild)

I’ve had some pretty awful sleeps on this tour, which is amazing, as I prefer sleeping outside to inside, but last night, in a beautiful apartment in Seville, I hardly slept. That was because we are situated right in the centre of the action and even though it was a Thursday, Seville was humming. Everyone that was in town last night either walked past, sang, operated a garbage truck or talked outside our window. This went on until 5am in the morning, when I eventually slept. Doesn’t help that the place doesn’t have double glazing.

When we did open our eyes, it was 9am. Today had dawned with full sun and we intended to see as much of Seville as we could. It was also the day that we said goodbye to our bikes as we had to pack them up and send them to Barcelona, ready for us to pick up and bring home. They did us well on tour and I was the only one to have anything go wrong and that was minor. Two punctures in London in two days on the Thames crappy cycle path was the last one we had and the tyres that we have toured on for the last three tours are excellent.

After a quick breakfast we were out the door on the bikes for a sightseeing mission, before we packed them up. Seville is full of history and we aimed to see as much on the bikes this morning as we could. With the weather perfect, we cycled firstly to the main Post Office to make sure that they have bike boxes ready for us. That confirmed and at least I knew that was one thing less to worry about. Set off to see Seville.

Began at the Cathedral, which unfortunately is having work done to it (I suppose you’re entitled to after five hundred years) so not ideal for photos. Did nobody get the memo that we were coming for goodness sake? This city has great cycle paths and none better than down by the river Guadalquivir. Everyone was out and about this morning and the tourist spots were packed.

Possibly the building that we both wanted to see the most was the Plaza de Espana. Built in 1928 for the Ibero –American Exhibition of 1929. It was built basically to wow the other exhibitors and showcase Seville’s talents in industry and crafts. It is absolutely magnificent and Julia and I wandered around for ages, just marvelling at the tile work alone. Trying to capture the size of the building is nigh on impossible and unless you had a wide angle lens or were using a panorama effect, you have to limit your shots. We are fortunate to have seen some beautiful buildings over the years and this rates highly.

Plaza de Espana - what a place!

The neighbourhood of Triana

Our jaunt lasted until 2pm when we figured it was time to eat. Rode the bikes back to the apartment and then shot out for a nice lunch just around the corner. By 3pm, we were busy cleaning the bikes ready for packing. Having sorted the gear that needed to go in the boxes with the bikes, (like sleeping mats, sleeping bags, tent, tool box etc), we loaded up and rode to the Correos, or Post Office, which fortunately is open until 8.30pm. Dealt with a great guy, who gave us the boxes and let us pack them up right inside the main room. They will send them to Barca for us and store them for free, for us to pick up and take to the airport, when we fly out. My heart was still in my mouth when signing the form, as it states that nothing else should be in the box, only the bikes. Had to get them and all our stuff there somehow though and this was the most effective way.

Outside the apartment we stayed at.

Madonna keeps an eye on us as we get the gear ready to take to the Post Office

After two hours of dismantling the bikes and packing them up, we left with a weight lifted from our shoulders.  Although we also felt slightly sad to see our dependable bikes going off alone into the world without us.  All we have to do now, is hope that they send them to the right address in Barca. Wandered the brightly lit, very busy, city streets. There was a definite buzz to the place and plenty of buskers on show.  Huge variety of acts but we’ve noticed they don’t seem to be raking it in and the tourists seem very reticent to part with their money.  We were impressed with a young bmx rider and a guitarist who was playing outside the post office as we left.  Popped into a café/bar for a paella and a drink before strolling the streets back to our abode. Facetimed both the girls and Brody and so glad to see that they are all well and happy. Wrote the blog and called it a day. Up early tomorrow for a walking tour of the city.

8th November (raining and mild) 10 km

Woke at 7.30am to pouring rain. Today we only have to ride 10kms to our hotel for the next three nights, but if possible, we would prefer not to get wet. I know, I know, there are people out there saying “Toughen up and That’s a first world problem” and you’re correct. But I still prefer to stay dry over getting wet. The hotel we are staying in is beautifully decorated and very well laid out, however, why would you put such an effort into something like that and slip up on something as simple as making sure that you had soundproofing between your walls. I don’t wish to hear every word of a conversation in the next room, especially in Spanish. If I have to listen to somebody, I want to at least know what they’re saying.

Breakfast at the hotel cost us Euro 10 for the two of us. Not a lot to some, but what they supplied was minimal and mostly stale. For us it was a big step up from what we would normally pay, but in the end we would rather have had our usual muesli and fruit breakfast – along with the 3 euro price tag.  Our fly sheet drying over the bath/shower, we blogged, used the terrible internet coverage and prepared to venture out into the now terrible weather. As I sit typing this I am reminded of how Scott must have felt on his last day attempting to reach the Antarctic. Venturing out in this whiteout, I mean hailstorm, well, storm….okay, heavy downpour, perhaps drizzle….whatever…I am reminded of hardship….yes…and how resilient it makes us.

Checkout time was 12pm. The weather was bad. This was the final push. A short 10km ride to Seville and that would be the cycling part of our journey completed. Although it was 19 degrees, it was near whiteout conditions. We loaded our trusty mounts, but then felt the need for a coffee from the hotel bar. It was only delaying the inevitable. As we sat gazing into each other’s eyes, I thought of the many adventures we have undertaken over the years. A tear slid slowly into the corner of my eye. The kids, my God, how were they to know just how dangerous this final stage could be. Bad enough on a normal day coping with cobbled streets, but in the wet with tyres slipping and sliding, cars inches from our bodies, it all made for tension on a massive scale and with death, always a possibility, I had to pull myself together for fear of Julia picking up on those vibes. After all she wants a real man, not a snivelling pussy.

Ju here – We haven’t had much rain on this tour, in fact we have been incredibly lucky with the weather.  However, we did come prepared with not only good rainjackets, but also rain pants and some fancy plastic overboots for our shoes which we got from a Chinese online store for $20.  I didn’t think they would last the tour, but because we’ve only worn them twice, they have.  We decided for some strange reason to not put our pants and plastic overboots on as we left the hotel this morning.  Our reasoning was that if it was too bad, we would take shelter in the underground carpark of the shopping centre where Burger King was situated.  That was only 1 km away and how wet could one get in just one km?  It turns out you could get very wet, especially when you had to ride through puddles which absolutely drenched our shoes and socks.  We arrived in the carpark in just a few minutes, soaking wet and annoyed at ourselves.

While I got my towel out and dried off my pants and got out some dry socks, the rain decided to ease off.  Pete decided we should go for it – I told him I’d learned my lesson and was putting my pants and overboots on.  I think he was determined to prove he wasn’t a snivelling pussy and decided not to – let’s hope he doesn’t end up with a snivelling cold!  So once I’d done this, we took off again for our next shopping centre.  Had a few navigation issues and just as we were about a km from the next shopping complex, down came the rain again.  I didn’t mind, I was nice and dry and warm.

Meeting up with Santiago and Ebana was a great surprise!

We had come to this shopping centre as it contained somewhere to purchase camping gas and to grab a bite to eat, so we did just that. After filling up, we were about to get some supplies from the supermarket when we ran into Ebana, who we had met cycling with Santiago a week ago. They were having coffee, so we joined them and Santiago’s friend, Juan, from Buenos Aires, who married a local woman and now resides here. It was great to see them again and we had a good chat and exchanged phone numbers in case we can get together before we all go our separate ways.

We then finally got to cycle the last few kms without any rain, to our next accommodation in the middle of Seville.  Our host for the next few days is Blas, a very nice guy, who helped us in with our gear, made us a tea and coffee and showed us to our upstairs apartment.  We have a bedroom and bathroom on the third floor and a small kitchenette and outdoor roof space on the fourth floor.  It is a real treat to be staying in an authentic Spanish house in the old part of Seville.

Our accommodation for the next three nights

The view from our terrace

Another view from our terrace

Seville at night

We finished some canned food for our dinner, which was a mistake for me because I didn’t feel too well after eating it.  Decided to go for a walk through the city anyway and felt a lot better after that.  It is a beautiful city with many magnificent buildings and we are looking forward to seeing it in the daylight……and hopefully nice weather.