12th September (sunny and hot) 36 km

No trains, only a small road above us, lush actual grass……we were in for a nice sleep.  And then the jet roared overhead at 10pm.  Well we didn’t see that one coming.  Luckily it was a one-off and we had a good sleep.  I did hear Dad get up to the loo twice, he said he went three times. I heard the midnight special and two o’clock. He said he went again at five. Jesus, he was peeing more than sleeping, but at least he was warm…. Hope he didn’t pee in his sleeping bag, that’ll keep you warm every time.

Before we turned in last night a guy turned up and set up virtually next to us. He was driving an old, but well maintained Trans Am, reminded us of yours Irena, except yours was shit. He was only a younger guy, but he obviously loved this car and his white Alsation which he had with him. The dog was pretty nervous of strangers and they don’t get any stranger than us. This morning as we were trying to eat breakfast and then pack up, this bloody dog was looking to pee on our stuff. The guy didn’t care, so it was something else we had to look out for.

Chateau at Candes St Martin

A push start this morning up a steep drive to begin and then through the town and off. Hadn’t gone far when the cycle route decided to chuck in some decent little climbs, short, but sharp and with Dad only just recovered from yesterday, it wasn’t the start we wanted, but he coped admirably.

Today en route we were passing by a lot of troglodyte homes, built into cliff walls. Peasants in the middle ages with nowhere to live, built these shelters of stone and they have now become fashionable with some people, who convert them into modern looking abodes, complete with modern era appliances.  

Cycling amongst the troglodyte homes

Troglodyte homes - some with new doors and windows.

Approaching Saumur - a lovely town

After a late start at 10.40am, we had only covered 16kms by 1pm, but that sun was sapping, plus there was such a lot to see. By now we were in the quaint town of Saumur, with its chateau built in the eleventh century. Julia was keen to investigate some photo ops, so I remained with Dad on a bench under the walls, in the shade, whilst she got some stunners. 

The Chateau at Saumur sits proudly above the town that now owns it.

The climb up to see it was totally worth it

Julia here – yes I had to climb a lot of stairs in the blazing sun, but when I saw there was no charge at the top to walk into the chateau grounds…..well, I just had to.  Pete and Jimmy were lucky that there was a charge to see inside.  I decided not to investigate how much they were charging, just in case I was tempted.

The bikes take a rest at our lunch stop at the bottom of the Chateau

At the bottom of the stairway to the chateau, was a perfect place for lunch with tables and seats in the shade and free toilets as well.  We already had cheese and bread so I went off in search of an ice cold coke for us to wash it down.  Was a bit of a mission, but got a glimpse of a beautiful township while I was searching for a supermarket.  Back to Pete and Jimmy for lunch and then we had a wander through town, and what a beautiful, vibrant little town it is with plenty of cafes and quaint old streets.

Saumur

Over the head shot from Julia - came out pretty well

The Loire-a-Velo then led us a merry dance up some sun-baked hills on the way out of town, which was not appreciated.  But after that segment, we had beautiful riding for the rest of the afternoon, with quite a bit of shade, thank goodness.  This session of riding was very scenic with all the troglodyte caves cut out of the white stone cliffs and houses built in front.  It was very hard to get a photo to do them justice as this whole area is little pockets of rambling villages with quaint cottages and mini-chateaux everywhere.

Caves and chateaux - they're everywhere around here

Hmmmm, shall we build a chateau, a church or a castle - a building for the indecisive.  Funnily enough, called the church of St Christoffa.....

We were very glad to stop at the campground in Gennes, especially when we noticed they sold ice-creams.  That was first on our list, and after we’d enjoyed devouring them at the shady picnic table, we set up our tents and got showers.

Yummy end to the day - burgers (or fish) and chips

Pete again: After hand washing the stuff we’ve worn that day, I too dived into a most welcome shower. Refreshed, I emerged ready for our eat-out meal…. Well, as you can see on the blog, a guy had come around in his very cute takeaway truck, selling fish n chips, or burger and chips. Dad and I went for the burgers whilst Ju opted for the fish. Both delicious, washed down with coke or beer. After dinner it was a stroll around this lovely site. Got talking to an English couple about their motorhome, before back to the tent where Dad turned in on another great days riding for him at 36kms. Ju and I had a coffee before doing the blog. A very scenic days riding.